Troy if you look on page 3 of this topic, you will see the block that Michael turned for me. I wanted to try to do this myself, but, I don't have or know anyone with a lathe. The first block that Micheal turned was made out of a piece of solid wood and it didn't last 5 months before developing a 1/2 inch wide crack all the way down the side even though the wood had been aged for about 11 years. The spike s are available from Northwoods and come in 2 lengths. I got the longer one. That said, when I got my eagle and he was going through the manning phase {bating} the block was constantly being pulled out of the ground. He is welled manned now and the longer spike works fine on the rare occassions that I tie the eagle down. 99% of the time he is freelofted. I have 2 large tree branches {one in each corner} that the eagles like to sit on. I also have a huge tree stump with his bathpan in front of it that he sits on just before and right after he takes his bath. During high winds, he sits on this large tree stump. I know that there is a picture of all this somewhere on this site so I will look it up and let you know where its at. Have you been to Brian's house and seen his setup? I got some of my ideas from him.
Troy go to "Raptor Facilities" on this site page 3 and under Weathering Area go to page 6. You will see pictures of my mews and weathering area. You will see one of the eagles flying to the perch in the corner. That perch is now horizontal to the ground and is now a swing perch. The eagles landed on this perch so many times that they snapped it off at the bottom.
Cjinx Some books spell things differently. Jess or Jesses is a right way of spelling. Plus I think you are missing the point of this thread. You can make over half of that stuff in that kit for a lot cheaper. Go back to the beginning of this thread and read.
I used to think i knew some things. But i'm not so sure anymore.
Humm so I took your advice Tiercel78 and read the whole Thread again... are you saying that It will save me money. period on the kit and I will then be able make my own equipment from then on? or are you saying that I totally Missed the point of this thread and should not be talking about leather working kits and instead work and be talking about apprientice kits. I don't quite get your point I missed the point of the thread??? I was under the impression That I simply showed Interest in leatherworking and that I changed the topic a bit. But I really don't know to much about Apprientice Kits and posted because I was complementing on Rookhawkers post. then somone he mentioned that Leather working saved alot of money So I inquired.
"The harder the conflict, the more glorious the triumph." -Thomas Paine
"Our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate. Our deepest fear is that we are powerful beyond measure. We ask ourselves, Who am I to be brilliant, gorgeous, talented, fabulous? Actually, who are you not to be? -Marianne Williamson
no problem. humm so That kit. I figure that it costs 630$ for The leather kit. and another 100 for the leather =730$ plus I would ahve to buy Bells Swivels could make the Perch, and leash. these item would cost me Approx:46$ + 776 the perch costing lets say 55 to make puts it up to 820$ the apprietnice kit would cost 650$ would ahve enery thing I would need At the moment for 650 but leave me stranded later on. Can I make the Gauntlet? or is it to hard?
"The harder the conflict, the more glorious the triumph." -Thomas Paine
"Our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate. Our deepest fear is that we are powerful beyond measure. We ask ourselves, Who am I to be brilliant, gorgeous, talented, fabulous? Actually, who are you not to be? -Marianne Williamson
Post by crbhawking on Feb 11, 2007 16:32:58 GMT -5
know one is making you do anything. You don't have to by that leatherkit. if you want you can just buy leather, a razorblade, a hole punch, grommet pliers, and gromets. this is really all you need for jesses, also for the gaulent get a pair of welders gloves, the use the right glove( if your righty) and cut it then use the wrist part to over lap where the left hand where the bird lands.
" Is life so dear, or peace so sweet, as to be purchased at the price of chains and slavery? Forbid it, Almighty God! I know not what course others may take, but as for me, GIVE ME LIBERTY OR GIVE ME DEATH" -Patrick Henry
"The harder the conflict, the more glorious the triumph." -Thomas Paine
"Our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate. Our deepest fear is that we are powerful beyond measure. We ask ourselves, Who am I to be brilliant, gorgeous, talented, fabulous? Actually, who are you not to be? -Marianne Williamson
crbhawking has a valid point. What you need to "get by" and make the falconry basics are exactly what he mentioned to you in his note:
leather, a razorblade, a hole punch, grommet pliers, and gromets
Here are some of the non-essentials you end up with when you buy the super-deluxe-O leatherworker's kit from Tandy:
Leather compass - for marking off stitches and measurements
Leather spacer tools - for spacing stitches for lures, bags, hoods, etc. (all three spacing tools you'd ever need)
Leather carving knife - if you ever wish to tool leather you'll have the swivel knife, sharpening stones and jewelers rouge to make carved hoods and gear...totally for beauty and not for function, keep in mind.
A premium grade rotary punch - You'll use this all the time and it is worth $50 alone. In 20 years of falconry pursuits I've broken at least a half dozen of the cheapo $15 leather punches making jesses.
I quality rawhide mallet for stamping, punching and pounding leather without damaging the tools.
Rubber pounding mat, Cutting board, and slap of marble for working on detailed leather projects.
A square for cutting straight lines...a fancy ruler.
A rivet and snap setter for finishing off chaps, hawking bag stuff, bewits, chin straps, etc. Every size imaginable.
Oval punches for other falconry projects.
Dozens of leather stamps for doing fancy things with leather...again, you'd never buy all of these separately at $5 each but in the kit they are costing you pennies.
A strap cutter - This is an ingenious tool for cutting straps for belts, leashes, thick lace, etc. A handy tool that many falconers buy for $30 separately.
Template books to go over different leather how-to info. This stuff is a rip-off you'd never buy separately, but when it's free with the kit you'll take them out and learn a thing or two to improve your skills. Example: how to stitch leather in a sturdy fashion. How to braid leather for fancy trim (non essential) or how to braid leather/nylon to make leashes, jesses, etc.
Leather punches - Most folks buy the rotary punch and you use that all the time for jesses and bracelets. However, when you can punch holes with separte punches it allows you to put the holes in the middle of bags and other places the plier-style rotary punch cannot reach. Handy to have but not critical.
Anvil type grommet setters - I NEVER use these to put on anklets but they have a very practical use. I put grommets in the bottom of my hawking bag/vest/coat pockets to keep it aired out, and more importantly for me, so the pockets drain water if I ever fall in when duck hawking. This safety modification to my gear has literally saved my life when I fell through the pond's ice. Had my gear not drained I would not have been able to climb out of the water under the weight I was carrying.
Leather knives of various types for skiving or cutting leather.
Leather scissors - An incredibly sharp and useful tool for cutting out patterns in a better manner than using an exacto. I didn't use one for 15 years because I thought it was superfluous until recently. It makes cutting out hoods a breeze.
A leather roller for smoothing leather and used in gluing things together and burnishing hood stictches on the block. Very handy in the kit but you'd probably not buy one for the $15 retail.
Leather bevelers - For making straps, belts used to close bags, etc. This bevels the leather's edges so they go through buckles easily. Some also use it to bevel leather butt joints on hoods so they sew together easier.
V-Gouge - This is used to make a crease in leather to create a fold point. Handy if you are trying to make a hood protector or a falconry bag out of leather that needs straight, creased edges to make things square.
tracing film and a stylus - for transferring designs if you ever wish to tool or stamp something...another non-critical handy thing to have.
The bottom line is that if you want to build a decent falconry leather tool collection you'll spend anywhere from $100 to $400 buying tools. If you find that you're getting anywhere above the $300 mark from the start you might want to bite the bullet and get the $549 kit knowing you're going to have every conceivable tool at your disposal to make whatever you dream up. The payback period on this kit could be months or a few years depending on how much stuff you wish to make with your own two hands.
To wrap up my post, whatever you do, don't buy the apprentice falconry kit. At the minimum spend $100 on leather tools and a kangaroo hide so you cam make the basics yourself.
Post by crbhawking on Feb 11, 2007 17:14:43 GMT -5
do you all prefer plier gromment setters or the screw type?
" Is life so dear, or peace so sweet, as to be purchased at the price of chains and slavery? Forbid it, Almighty God! I know not what course others may take, but as for me, GIVE ME LIBERTY OR GIVE ME DEATH" -Patrick Henry
I strongly prefer the plier type because it is quick and can often be done with a bird hooded instead of casting the bird.
Unfortunately, there is a limitation with the pliers...they cannot set grommets further in then the depth of the jaws. If you want to put grommets in the bottom of your hawking bag pockets or in another location you must use the screw-type or the old anvil type.
As an FYI. I wanted to buy a set of eagle screw type setters and found that Northwoods is the only supplier of screw type grommet setters. As of 2/11/2007 they are out of stock on all sizes except merlin / kestrel and thley do not know when they will obtain a new manufacturer.
I wansn't going to Buy the apprientice kit. I was comparing Prices. I will probably end up buying the leather Kit but Exploring other possibility's is very Important.to make the equipment I need it would cost Approx-820$.That is a staple price of Falconry, and I will not Cut corners! for my birds and my sake. I have always been Somwhat interested in leather working Along with Falconry. only of late did I know that they ride hand in hand. thank you Rookhawker, and all you other guys for sharing your Information with me. I ordered Falconry Euipment Book from NW so now I have patterns
"The harder the conflict, the more glorious the triumph." -Thomas Paine
"Our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate. Our deepest fear is that we are powerful beyond measure. We ask ourselves, Who am I to be brilliant, gorgeous, talented, fabulous? Actually, who are you not to be? -Marianne Williamson
I have a question....... would this kit cover the basics of what you would need? www.tandyleather.com/products.asp?number=55510-00 you said to buy leather, and $100 in tools, but what tools? also pineo has kang hide for $14 ....
I say make your own equipment. I bought 2 kangaroo hides for under $60, and this includes shipping from Australia. Pineo sells theirs for about $77 each (gotta read the small print, about 7 sq. ft. and at $11 per sq. ft.). Went to Lowe’s and bought a hole punch and an exacto knife for $15. Also dental floss at the store for $3. Now I am learning to make the equipment. The fancier stuff could be useful, but it’s not necessary to be successful. Just my $0.02.