I have a 1 yr old mini doxie that just loves to chew cords and want him to stop!!! He has now ruined my step dads heavy gauge extension cord and his drill, a couple of my extension cords, wiring to my motorcycle trailer, and the cord to my hd dvr. Thankfully none of them were plugged in. I don't know if that's coincidence of if he knows what he is doing.
It's starting to get frustrating cuz I love the little guy. But eneough is enough! He has ruined enough of mine and others stuff. He is over a year now and I figured he would be broken of chewing or other bad habits. I don't want to, but I think I am gonna have to keep him crated even more. I think he did his latest damage when I fell asleep on the couch the other night. He is usually right by my side when he is out, so he is not unsupervised that much, but there are the rare times like me falling asleep when he is able to sneak away.
I know about the bitter apple stuff, but I really didn't want to slather that all over all of the cords in my house, or even spray it. Any ideas?
Right off the top of my head (without knowing other details), it sounds like you've got a bored dog on your hands. How much exercise is he getting? Does he have chew toys on his own?
Basically you want to praise for chewing on his toys and "punish" for chewing on things you don't want him to. The "punishment" I usually give is a loud noise, like "EH!".
And always remember, a well exercised dog is a good dog.
That's a really simple explanation for everything, but it's late and I should be in bed. I can go into further detail if needed in the morning.
i hear those red gongs that you put peanut butter in work really well to keep a dog occupied. that may be one thing to try. other than that, i agree with spygirl, the dog needs PLENTY of outside exercise (backyard doesnt count).
when my golden was a puppy she used to chew on the carpet, until it was almost completely devoured in some areas. we put tabasco sauce on it one time.. and she never did it again... haha thats what worked for me!
but i also suggest keeping him in an area like the kitchen with a dog gate when you cant watch him. let him out when you can watch him. let him know you disagree with him chewing on cords and such and right after give him a toy he can chew on and praise him for that. very soon the dog should realize what is okay and what isnt. im by no means a dog trainer, just a dog fan giving some tips that MAY/NOT work.. hope this helps
*courtney* *gamble 2x intermewed RT *
As Long As There Are Tests, There Will Be Prayer In Public Schools.
The 4 components of solving any behavioral issue are: Teaching and rewarding alternative behaviors, management of the problem and setting the dog up to succeed, punishment or correction of incorrect behaviors and management.
Rewarding alternate behaviors: Give him appropriate chew toys and reward chewing on THOSE. He will learn what's right and wrong, as said above.
Management of the problem and setting the dog up to succeed: Don't give him access to the cords when you can't correct it. Crate or place in an area where he can't get to them. You might have to try the bitter apple if he absolutely MUST be in the area when you're not around.
Punishment of incorrect behavior: Corrective action (i.e. "eh-eh!" or a shaker can or some such) if performing the undesirable behavior as well as environmental punishment (the bitter apple if he tries to chew the cords, etc)
Management: Exercise, exercise, exercise! Training is an ongoing process but a tired dog is a good dog. Consistency...you can't let him get away with it sometimes and not other times. Part of management as well. Everybody pretty much said everything I just put it a little bit more logically...hope it helps.
If you dislike someone, walk a mile in their shoes. Then, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. --Jack Handy
I would suggest a shock collar. There are some here who will disagree and say its inhumane, but, if your dog should happen to get a cord that is plugged in, you won't have to worry about wether its humane or not. When dogs are trained to avoid rattlesnakes, they are shown a rattlesnake and then given a light shock to keep the dogs away from the snake. A shock collar is very effective when used the right way. Just remember to use a very light shock on the dog. I have a shock collar on my dogs every time they are in the field and they learn to stay close and mind when they are called. I very rarely have to use the shock on the collar. This picture is my dog taken a couple of days ago out in the field.
In the house, when I see a new dog do something naughty or if barking inappropriately, I throw the bomb at the dog and hit her with it (not hard). It's got rounded edges, so it doesn't hurt. It's like a spanking and scolding at the same time - but I'm not doing it ... the container is.
After a few surprise hits, the dog associates the penny noise with "stop doing that!", and just jingling the canister will get an instant response. It's worked on every dog I've trained, young and old.
Yay, I don't have to go into detail! Ally did it for me! I agree with everything she has said.
That's pretty much the formula I use with all chewers. And remember, just because he's 1 and eats adult dog food, doesn't meant he's an "adult." I see a lot of 1 year olds with a lot of puppy in them still. Follow the advice you've been given and you'll have your problem fixed in no time.
Thanks for the replies. He gets plenty of excersise and time to run. He is out in the woods/fields/parks looking for bunnies getting ready for the season. He really only seems to do it if he manages to sneak away for some time, like when I fell asleep. He has plenty of toys, but doesn't touch any of them. He would rather have a squirrel tail or bunny part than anything, which I do give him. I even put rabbit and squirrel scent on his toys and he just leaves them alone. He would rather chase the living, breathing toys all over the yard.
As far as the collars or noise maker's, you have to catch him in the act with those, right? I have never caught the little sneak in the act. It's just frustrating because not only is he ruining my stuff, he could possibly hurt or kill himself. He doesn't do anything when I am right there, so maybe I will have to just gate whatever room we are in.
Yes, if all else fail, keep him behind a gate when you can't supervise him.
Let me suggest that you "set him up". Get some cords or whatever it is he chews on, place it near him and sit on the couch and watch tv. Make sure you keep a leash on him! It can be a fairly long one so he can wander a bit. The point is not to keep him close but to be able to correct him when he starts the bad behavior.
He will eventually start to get bored and those cords will probably look pretty tempting. As soon as he starts to touch them or chew on them, jerk the leash so that you "pop" his collar. You dont want to pull him or put constant pressure on the collar, just a short snap. It will more get his attention than hurt him. As you do this give a loud "NO!"
You can do that as many times as he keeps trying to get the cords.
The transition of this to where the cords normally are, might be difficult but you could try being there with him with cords laid out in various places around the house. But set him up in a situation where you can be there to correct him.
Hope this helps.
Oh, and spygirl is right, most dogs dont mature until a few years old. Most hunting breeds dont mature until 4-6years
Last Edit: Aug 28, 2009 15:43:00 GMT -5 by Starburst
Sage - Female American Kestrel 2008 -------------------------------------------- Zephyr - Female Red Tail 2008-2010 -------------------------------------------- Saffron - Female American Kestrel 2009-2010
You have to be careful with the "leash pop," as starburst suggested. I only find one flaw in her theory; you shouldn't have to do it over and over. If two corrections doesn't get the point across, then the correction either A) isn't strong enough or B) not the right correction for the dog.
Setting him up is a good idea if you can't catch him at all. But you have to be sneaky...might I suggest a motion sensor shriek-alarm right in front of said cords? you wouldn't have to be there but it would surprise the hell out of him when he wandered too close next time!
If you dislike someone, walk a mile in their shoes. Then, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. --Jack Handy
You have to be careful with the "leash pop," as starburst suggested. I only find one flaw in her theory; you shouldn't have to do it over and over. If two corrections doesn't get the point across, then the correction either A) isn't strong enough or B) not the right correction for the dog.
Setting him up is a good idea if you can't catch him at all. But you have to be sneaky...might I suggest a motion sensor shriek-alarm right in front of said cords? you wouldn't have to be there but it would surprise the hell out of him when he wandered too close next time!
I wouldn't do a leash pop with a dachshund, simply because it's a dachshund, and they don't need a reason to have a back problem...
"We promised the world we'd tame it, what were we hoping for?" -Bloc Party
If done correctly, the collar correction i'm describing wont give the dog problems.
Ally I think you misunderstood me. I didnt mean keep giving the collar correciton several times in a row I meant correct the dog and stop the behavior and then once the dog starts to show interest in the cords again give another correction.
Long story short, Do what you feel comfortable doing. Not everyone likes the same methods. However I raised 3 guide dogs for the blind using the collar correction i described, though, as forestfalcon stated, you have a dachshund and the pups I raised were labradors.
Last Edit: Aug 29, 2009 2:51:36 GMT -5 by Starburst
Sage - Female American Kestrel 2008 -------------------------------------------- Zephyr - Female Red Tail 2008-2010 -------------------------------------------- Saffron - Female American Kestrel 2009-2010
Ally I think you misunderstood me. I didnt mean keep giving the collar correciton several times in a row I meant correct the dog and stop the behavior and then once the dog starts to show interest in the cords again give another correction.
No, I understood what you meant. I don't like leash-pop corrections all that much but they can be effective. However, if you have to correct the dog more than two or three times for the same behavior (showing interest in the cords) it's not working. Most people make the mistake of not making a leash-pop strong enough and so it doesn't have any effect on the dog.
I forgot we were dealing with a dachsund...I like the shriek-alarm idea but those can be hard to find and are a little more spendy than a nylon leash.
Of course, these are only suggestions so take what you will out of them! You asked for training methods and here's a few you can try. No way is right or wrong but you must be consistent with whatever you choose!
If you dislike someone, walk a mile in their shoes. Then, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. --Jack Handy