OK i'll ask the first question. Do you have her yet? My family get our dogs at 6 weeks no younger no older.
In Colorado, it is illegal to sell/buy dogs and cats that are under 8 weeks old, I don't know what it is in other states, but may be worth checking into. It isn't generally a good idea to take them away from mom before 7 weeks anyways. In my experience, animals (dogs/cats) that are taken away from their moms too early, they tend to have fear/aggression issues. It's important that they get some socialization with their mothers.
"We promised the world we'd tame it, what were we hoping for?" -Bloc Party
OK i'll ask the first question. Do you have her yet? My family get our dogs at 6 weeks no younger no older.
In Colorado, it is illegal to sell/buy dogs and cats that are under 8 weeks old, I don't know what it is in other states, but may be worth checking into. It isn't generally a good idea to take them away from mom before 7 weeks anyways. In my experience, animals (dogs/cats) that are taken away from their moms too early, they tend to have fear/aggression issues. It's important that they get some socialization with their mothers.
I don't tend to agree with that. I don't think it really makes that much difference. one of my current dogs a Queensland was taken from her mom at 5 1\2 weeks because mom wasn't real good with puppies and would kill them. all you have to do is transfer the focus of mom to you and socialize allot. at 7 weeks I started gun training her buy going out with her and a 22 rifle. sat down with a cooler and a lawn chair and just fired a round off every once in a while. I even shot a bunny while out in the field and let her play with it. she is now a great dog very steady and gets along with anything. I find that fear and aggression comes from the trainer not the trainee. but that is just my opinion
Post by forestfalcon on Jun 20, 2008 12:42:49 GMT -5
I agree with you. It is absolutely the human involved in the puppy's situation. But that's my point...it is very difficult for MOST people to give an underage puppy the proper socialization. but in any case, there are several states that have laws against selling/owning a puppy under 8 weeks:
Post by justinrondeau on Jun 20, 2008 12:47:11 GMT -5
thanks for your concerns guys, I think I;ll get her at 7 or 8 weeks, depending on when I move into my new house and what my work schedule is for the next two weeks. If I can be with her everyday all day for her 7th week then I'll take her then. Not sure what Washington state has to say about it, but 'they' won't let me hunt cats with her, I'm not sure why I should let 'them' decide when I should get her too!!!
Post by dirthawker on Jun 20, 2008 12:54:41 GMT -5
I know that you where just stating a fact on the law and I wasn't trying to start an argument. sorry if you took it that way. I was just pointing out that it is the trainers fault if the dog is a idiot. its like pit bulls they are banned in some states because people train them to be aggressive. on the other hand if trained to be good dogs they are a great companion. I also spent the first month sleeping on the floor next to the kennel so when the puppy woke up I was there to comfort her as well as she spends every day with me all day.
well i haven't read what the other posts said yet but for use it was bonding. at 6 weeks the dog bonds with the mother(so i'm told) or if you have it then you. but of corse my family knows how to take care of pups that young from breeding pit bulls for years
09-10season 0 game taken. No one said any thing about needing a bird to go hunting ;D ;D
I know that you where just stating a fact on the law and I wasn't trying to start an argument. sorry if you took it that way. I was just pointing out that it is the trainers fault if the dog is a idiot. its like pit bulls they are banned in some states because people train them to be aggressive. on the other hand if trained to be good dogs they are a great companion. I also spent the first month sleeping on the floor next to the kennel so when the puppy woke up I was there to comfort her as well as she spends every day with me all day.
Yes someone else knows it’s the owner’s fault not the pit-bull. The pit bull we had when I was little let me sleep on him and everything plus he taught me how to walk before my parents could.
09-10season 0 game taken. No one said any thing about needing a bird to go hunting ;D ;D
DATE OF PUBLICATION OF THE VALID ORIGINAL STANDARD : 05.02.1996.
UTILIZATION : Versatile hunting dog, suited in particular for the hunt under the ground and as a flushing dog.
FCI CLASSIFICATION : Group 3 Terriers. Section 1 Large and medium sized Terriers. With working trial.
BRIEF HISTORICAL SUMMARY : After the first World War a group of active hunters separated from the numerically strong FoxTerrier Club. It was their aim to create a breed, the sole purpose of which would be hunting performance. The experienced hunters and cynologists Rudolf Frieß, Walter Zangenberg and CarlErich Grünewald decided to select a black and tan hunting dog in particular suitable for the hunt under the ground. A coincidence came in support of their efforts. A zoo director, Lutz Heck / Hagenberg presented Walter Zangenberg with four black and tan terriers which were said to come from purebred FoxTerrier lines. These dogs became the foundation stock of the German Hunting Terrier. At the time Dr Herbert Lackner joined the founders. After many years of intensive breeding efforts, and through skilful crossings with the Old English Wirehaired Terrier as well as with the Welsh Terrier, they succeeded to fix the appearance of their breed. At the same time they put great emphasis on breeding a multitalented, well trainable, hard, tonguegiving and waterhappy dog with an explicit hunting instinct. The German Hunting Terrier Club (Deutscher JagdterrierClub e.V.) was founded in 1926. As ever, the breeders continued to value most carefully their breed for its usefulness as a hunting dog, its steadiness of character, its courage and drive.
GENERAL APPEARANCE : A smallish, generally black and tan, compact, well proportioned working hunting dog.
IMPORTANT PROPORTIONS : Proportion of chest circumference to height at the withers : The circumference of the chest is 10 to 12 cm more than the height at the withers. Body length to height at the withers : The body is insignificantly longer than the height at the withers. Depth of chest to height at the withers : Circa 55 60 % of the height at the withers.
BEHAVIOUR / CHARACTER : Courageous and hard, takes pleasure in work, enduring, vital, full of temperament, reliable, sociable and trainable, neither shy nor aggressive.
HEAD : Elongated, slightly wedgeshaped, not pointed, the muzzle slightly shorter than the skull from occiput to stop.
CRANIAL REGION : Skull : The skull is flat, broad between the ears, narrower between the eyes. Stop : Slightly marked.
FACIAL REGION : Nose : In harmony with the muzzle, neither too narrow nor too small, not cleft. Black, but when the colour of the coat is dominantly brown, a brown nose is also permitted. Muzzle : Strong, distinct underjaw, strongly pronounced chin. Cheeks : Well pronounced. Lips : Tight and well pigmented. Jaws/Teeth : Big teeth. Strong jaws with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, whereby the row of upper incisors, without gap, perfectly locks over the lower incisors, and with the teeth standing vertically to the jaws. 42 teeth in accordance with the teeth formula. Eyes : Dark, small, oval, well placed in such a way that injury is hardly possible; the eyelids are tight. Resolute expression. Ears : Set high, not explicitely small, Vshaped; slightly touching semidrop ears.
NECK : Strong, not too long, well put on and blending strongly into the shoulders.
BODY : Topline : Straight. Withers : Well defined. Back : Strong, straight, not too short. Loin : Well muscled. Croup : Well muscled and flat. Chest : Deep, ribs well sprung, not too broad, long breastbone with ribs well reaching backwards. Underline : Elegantly curved backwards; short and firm flanks, belly slightly drawn up.
TAIL : Well set to the long croup, docked for circa 1/3. Is rather carried slightly raised than steeply erected, but should never incline over the back. (In countries where tail docking is prohibited by law, it can be left in its natural state. It should be carried horizontally or slightly sabreformed.)
LIMBS
FOREQUARTERS : General : Seen from the front the forelegs are straight and parallel, viewed from the side they are placed well under the body. The distance from the surface to the elbows is approximately equal to the distance from the elbows to the withers. Shoulders : The shoulderblade lies well oblique and backwards; it is long and strongly muscled. There is good angulation between shoulderblade and upper arm. Upper arm : As long as possible, well and dry muscled. Elbows : Close to body, neither turned inward nor outward. Good angulation between upper arm and forearm. Forearm : Dry, straight and upright with strong bones. Pastern joint : Strong. Pastern : Slightly angulated to the ground, bones rather strong than fine. Forefeet : Often broader than the hind feet, the toes lying close to each other with sufficiently thick, hard, resistant and well pigmented pads. They are parallel, in stance as well as in movement neither turned inward nor outward.
HINDQUARTERS : General : Viewed from behind straight and parallel. Good angulation between upper thigh and lower thigh and also at the hocks. Strong bones. Upper thigh : Long, broad and muscular. Stifle : Strong with good angulation between upper and lower thigh. Lower thigh : Long, muscular and sinewy. Hock joint : Strong and placed low. Hocks : Short and vertical. Hind feet : Oval to round, the toes lying close to each other, with sufficiently thick, hard, resistant and well pigmented pads. They are parallel, in stance and in movement neither turned inward nor outward.
GAIT / MOVEMENT : Ample ground covering, free, with good reach in the front and powerful drive from the rear. In front and hindquarters parallel and straight; never stilted.
SKIN : Thick, tight, without folds.
COAT
HAIR : Plain, dense; hard rough hair or coarse smooth hair.
COLOUR : The colour is black, darkbrown or greyishblack, with fawn (yellowred) clearly defined markings at the eyebrows, muzzle, chest, the legs and at the base of the tail. Light and dark mask is equally permitted; small white markings on chest and toes are tolerated.
SIZE AND WEIGHT : Height at the withers : Dogs : 33 to 40 cm, Bitches : 33 to 40 cm. Weight (desired ideal weight for working) : Dogs : 9 to 10 kg, Bitches : 7,5 to 8,5 kg.
FAULTS : Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree. Missing of one or both M3 (Molars) is not to be considered a fault.
SERIOUS FAULTS : · Narrow skull, narrow and also pointed muzzle. · Falling away underjaw, narrow jaws. · Weak bite, any slight irregularity in the placing of the incisors. · Light or spotted nose. · Light, too big or protruding eyes. · Erected, flying, too small, set too low or heavy ears. · Steep forequarters. · Soft or roached back, too short back. · Short breastbone. · Too narrow or too wide in front. · Steep hindquarters, overbuilt. · Elbows clearly turned in or out. · Too close or spread toes; cow-hocked, bow-legged or narrow hocks, in stance as well as in movement. · Ambling, stilted or tripping gait. · Splayed feet, cat feet. · Tail inclining over the back, tail set too low or hanging. · Short, woolly, open or thin hair, bald at the belly or at the inner sides of the thighs.
DISQUALIFYING FAULTS : · Weak in temperament and character, shot or game shy. · Over and undershot bite, wry mouth, pincer and partial pincer bite, irregularly placed teeth, missing teeth except for M3. · Incorrect pigmentation. · Entropion and ectropion, eyes of different colour, blue or spotted eyes. · Any departure of the described coat colour. · Over and under size.
N.B. : Male animals must have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.
Post by justinrondeau on Jun 26, 2008 18:06:15 GMT -5
Goran, thanks for posting the breed standard I've seen you around a lot of falconry and terrier places on the net. In general could you quickly describe your dogs and hawks and how they work together? Obviously the dog flushes the bunny, the hawk gets the bunny, but otherwise anything worth noting about the jagd's intensity or how they well or poorly they work with the birds? You are pretty much the guy on here doing what I want to do, or close to it
Jagdterriers as a breed need a lot of training, exposure and exercise.For my birds they work on c'tails, squirrels and ducks.Obedience training is important because they can forget to stop running when bird catches.Try to get one from hard hunting parents because they will better tolerate hard training to work with birds.There will still be enough fire in them to be used for coons and feral pigs.