Ok, many of you know I have a Black Labrador retriever that I'm hoping to use as a flushing dog for my hawk this upcoming hunting season. He knows his commands fairly well INDOORS..but the second we go outdoors its like his commands go oblivious to him. (Well, sometimes he can do his commands..but its like he chooses when he wants to or not. and I HATE That.)And today he got off lead accidently and he didnt even respond to his calls or anything, and was off the lead well over an hour, running throughout the fields and forests beyond our house.He finally came wandering back home once he was out of energy. Can someone please help and tell me how I can teach my dog commands OUTDOORS? I truely want my dog to be a decent flushing dog before hunting season rolls around.
FG
"Falconry is not a hobby or an amusement; it is a rage. You eat and drink it, sleep it and think it. You tremble to write of it, even in recollection. It is as King James the First remarked, an extreme stirrer up of passions." --- T.H. White
Work with him outdoors on a check cord. once he masters that take him off it with a shock collar if needed. Thast what i would do but my dog training experiance is purely just from reading, no practical experaince
Falcon Boy Apprentice Falconry Administrator
Ethics make the individual, not the other way around.
Shock collar on the lowest setting that is possible. I watch several of the Lab trainers around here and everyone of them use a shock collar. I get to see them go through the paces because I live right across the riverbed from the field where they train the dogs in. Keep in mind that you don't want the dog to be afraid of the collar, its just on the dog as a reminder.
The problem you describe is very commonly seen with dogs, and is imputable to trainer inexperience, not dog's disobedience.
Everything a dog learn has to be proofed under the 3Ds before you can tell a dog trully knows a command. The 3Ds are Distance, Distraction and Duration. From a dog's point of view, "come" in the kitchen with no distraction, almost no distance from the trainer is not the same command as "come" in an outside situation, full of distractions and away from trainer. So first you do as you did, train with no one of the 3Ds present, then work on each of them separately. Add distraction very gradually, then stop distractions and add distance, then stop both and add them all at once, but always with small steps. It works wonders and you'll never need a shock collar or any punition, you only have to teach your dog that "come" in the house is the same thing as "come" in the field... Set your criterions so low that you are sure your dog will succeed, and reward heavily every tiny success, that's the key to good training. Top quality dog's training articles are found on the article section of this website, if you want the exact step-by-step "recipes" onhow to teach the recall and the basic obedience training. www.clickersolutions.com
Everything I hold in my hands today could be only a memory tomorrow. Carpe Diem.
i found that i ONLY train my dog outside..lol. i know its kinda lame but it worked. and i would never use a shock collar on my dog. cause then they will be scared of all collars.
and you have to be very hands on. if you have a long leash. like the kind thats like 20 feet long. put the leash on him/her sit him down, walk away, and say "come!" in a very commanding voice. if he/she doesn't come pull the leash *not hard dont choke him/her!* and he will walk over. do that over and over again. and when he gets to you give him a treat. after a while he will come while on the leash.
NOW, off the leash, this is when you have to be commanding. sit him down. yell "come" in a very calm voice. if he/she doesn't come just be his master! be commanding. and he will come after a few times.
if you do what i just said. it will work. Ive trained 7 dogs by doing that. my 2, my neighbors 3 dogs, and my grandparents 2 dogs. it works every time. and if he runs away while training. just flick him/her on the nose. don't hit! never hit! unless you have to! just flick on the nose.
if you need any other help PM me.
Last Edit: Apr 4, 2007 12:55:30 GMT -5 by jake34705
I use a shock collar on my dogs ever time they go out in the field. They always wear a normal collar with thier dog license attached and that never comes off. My dogs have never been afraid of the collars and every once in a while I have to shock them to get thier attention. Done right you can't beat a shock collar for training a hunting dog. You go to any hunting dog training facility in the nation and you will see that they use shock collars.
The mildest shock from the collar is not even as much as static shock. Its more of a tingle. You can hold the collar elements in the palm of your hand and you can barely feel the tingle. I know this is going to sound wierd, but, I have a friend that uses his shock collar when he has to go on long hour drives. He shocks himself in the neck to stay awake. If you turn the collar up, it will defiantly hurt and that should never be done unless absolutely necessary to save the dog from going into the street or something along those lines.
I'm very new to the world of falconry, but not dog training. I've been doing a lot of research on the training, and I've found that suggested ways of training birds is VERY similar to dogs. I've always used positive reinforcement in all my dog training, just like it's recommended to use with birds. The way you're taught to have a bird come to you is small increments. The bird doesn't even realize that the distance is growing. The key is to make it all enjoyable. He's always rewarded at first. I use meat with dogs just like birds, except usually something like summer sausage, when they're very hungry, or have high drive, or are keen. The training sessions are short bursts, and fun. Before you know it, your dog will love coming to you.
I think we should all have to address each other by our screen names in real life...