I've been tempted to subscripe to that Magazine for a long time. I just haven't done it yet. I discovered while showing dogs what a pain in the butt a coated breed can be. We are plagued with Cockelburrs here. If you let one stay in there for a while, you got a mess on you hands. I can't make up my mind! I keep vacilating between a GSP, GWP, or a Pointing Lab. I think i've narrowed it down to those three. I was hoping to find a dog that would hunt rabbits and birds, but that is just a pipe dream. Zach seems to think that he'll stick with rabbits and squirrels for a while, so he may get his own rabbit dog. That could solve the problem. Still looking for information. Maybe i'll get a copy if that magazine and read the article you referred to, Jim. More info is better than not enough.
I bought a couple baby gates and keep my dog in the entry way most of the time he is in the house. This will help in keeping your electrical wires from being chewed on and will aid in housebreaking as will keeping him in a small crate at night. Have fun Chris, puppies can be a handful but the rewards are great.
Thank's Mike ,,only therer's hard wood flor in the entry way,I know what kind of idiot puts down hardwood in the entry. But it was there when I moved in. Oh well we'll think of something. squirt guns work good . unless they enjoy it like my mom's cat. but then that is a strange cat. plays in the running water while mom is doing the dishes
I'm a firm believer in crate training. After the dog reaches 12 wks of age or so, it is perfectly capable of holding it until you get home from work. Take the dog out in the morning, let it eliminate, then put it back in the crate. Do the same when you get home in the evening... Plus use the time out of the crate as training time. The dog associates the free time out of the kennel as play time, so training becomes "play". After eliminating and training is over put it back in the crate. Also, the crate become a security place for it... the old cave instinct. If you keep the dog in the house, that will become it's sleeping spot. When you're afield with it, it makes it really easy to get the dog to jump in and out of the crate. To me, it's the best way to start training your dog.
I've never trained a dog for hunting before, so this is uncharted territory for me. But a man told me just yesterday that you should spend the first 6 mos at least obedience training the dog. After that you get into the fun stuff.
When using a crate for housebreaking it should not be too big or the pup will eliminate in the back. Blocking the back with a pizza box will work if you put something sturdy behind it. If the floor of the crate is bare he also will be less likely to relieve himself. I think a puppy can hold it for about three hours when he is young.
Bob I've been doing some reading on training for falconry and have found that the most important thing to learn is stop, come, and lay down. the last not as important as the first two. A dog that can not be completely controled is a problem waiting to happen. The rest is gravey. So I've read. We'll see.
I believe that it was "The Red-Tailed Hawk North Americas' Most Versitile Hunting Hawk" by Liam J. McGranaghan. I didn't quote directly but that is basically what he said. Any dog can be used for falconry some are easier to train than others ,but most important is that the dog be completely trained and obediant.
I think Chris is right. I think that is the jist of what he was saying in part of the book. Obediance is key. A dog that wont come is no help IMHO. You should be chasing your bird not your dog
Falcon Boy Apprentice Falconry Administrator
Ethics make the individual, not the other way around.
I know you guys have prolly mentioned this before but.. what does IMHO mean? Really...im 17 and now most of the chat lingo but this surpas's me! So far all im gettin is Im "A" HO and that doesnt work..